All in a day at Lerwick

We went out at about lunchtime for a stroll into Lerwick,  the weather slowly improving as we made our way around the southern headland known as The Knab and back towards the harbour.  As we started heading north again we were taken back somewhat to see looming above the rooftops a huge cruise ship. It was the 90,000 ton Brilliance of the Seas making a short stop-over in Lerwick.  As we got nearer the harbour, we started to come across dozens of tourists of varying nationality all wandering about and clicking away with their cameras.

Ok I guess if you like that sort of thing...personally we prefer the comfort of a good motorhome! 

Top of the range Maid on the jetty in Lerwick Harbour. Although I much prefer the older boats, I cannot deny that this is one pretty and fast looking little ship!

As much go faster gear as you would expect to get on any top of the range racing dinghy!

Now that's not something you would expect to see very often

By about 7pm  the day had turned into the most lovely Shetland evening, the sun shining through and that quiet and stillness that you only can get in Shetland, even in the capital of Lerwick.

Skeld to Sandness

A wonderful sunset at Sandness on west mainland yesterday evening, but then the mist started rolling in and we thought it would be ruined. Instead of that however it simply looked stunning, rolling in over Papa Stour.  

We went to bed on a drizzly but very still  Sunday evening, quite close to the water by the pier at West Burrafirth but we woke in the morning, beside this bus stop which was about 5 miles away!  During the night, it blew up a howler so in fear of our lives we decided to 'up anchor' and relocate to somewhere more sheltered. Ah, the perils of wild camping!

Our new location might not be so scenic but at least it was safe!

One of the lovely old water mills at Sandness, used to grind flour

A shot almost into the sun but I still like it!

Enjoying some lovely late afternoon sunshine at Sandness

I think this could be an Otter's creek, as we found a 'haul out' spot with broken sea urchins, close by.

Yell to West Mainland

After the trauma of Harry's breakdown...which really turned out to be

nothing at all to be concerned about, we spent a peaceful night beside the beach at West Sand Wick and it was just the ticket! The sight waiting to meet us in the morning was just wonderful; the sun was shining through and the wind just blew a calm north easterly.  Some early morning photography was just the order of the day.  We had the place to ourselves all morning until a lady we now know as Anne turned up on her bike.  We sat chatting for some time whilst she waited for her husband David, who had been out fishing, to arrive.  Some time passed and Anne was a little concerned that David was taking a little longer than she expected to arrive so we offered her the use of a mobile phone and she called him.  Half an hour later he turned up with a load of fresh filleted mackerel for us!

Anne and David told us of a newly constructed marina with  a small touring site at Burravaoe on the south west of the island, complete with a much-needed washing machine. Later in the day we headed in that direction just after I had caught sight of my first Shetland bumble bee!

The lovely beach at West Sand Wick

On the causeway at the Wick of Vatsetter

Cooking up the mackerel fillets kindly given to us the day before

The morning view over Vatsetter with mist rolling down from the Ness of Lussetter

The view on the Wednesday morning with the salmon farm in near distance

On our way to catch the ferry at Ulsta we once again pass The 'Windhouse' where Skeletons were found beneath the floor and walls. It is now believed by many to be haunted and I do not think we would argue over that possibility!

The lighthouse at Esha Ness on West Mainland where we spent the late afternoon, evening and night!

It was a lovely evening as we waited for the sun to set

It was not disappointing!

Next day, 'Kate Humble' up and ready to explore on Esha Ness

Seals a plenty near the 'Burro Stacks' at the headland on Esha Ness

The natural arch on 'Muckle Ossa'

 

Dore Holm

Stacks a plenty!

What pleasure when you can just pull up and enjoy!

Breakdown!

After leaving Unst we arrived on Yell at about 7pm in the evening and took advantage of the wifi at the Gutcher ferry terminal and any otter spotting opportunities as apparently the ferry terminals are a well known location for seeing them.  No luck though, so to date only David has watched one and that was at about 4am at Norwick following a 'call of nature visit'.

We headed north west towards Culivoe with a brief halt at the pier to pick up water and use the loo's.
Our stopover for the night was near the beach at Brekon beside another graveyard.  We sat here late into the evening enjoying a lovely sunset and looking out over the bay.

Needing to nip to the shops the next morning before a wander on the beach and Harry wont start! After a phone call to splendid SMC motorhomes in Newark who do our servicing, it turned out to be a slightly loose battery terminal. Panic now over, blown 50 amp fuse also, now with a temporary fix to it.  Perhaps one of the residents in the graveyard objected to us parking there!

Saturday was another fine day and we had a nice stroll along the beach before heading off the evening to West Sandwick beside another beach.

Breckon Beach

                                                                   The Gloup Memorial 

Erected in 1991 to commemorate the 58 men lost in a storm on 21st July 1881. Thirty four widows and eighty five children were left without husbands and fathers.  Gloup was one of the most important haaf (fishing) stations in Shetland and the men would go out some 30 to 40 miles in open boats known as 'sixareens', 

What a site to greet you first thing in the morning; the beach at West Sandwick.  

West Sandwick

Last day on Unst

Probably not the best day to choose to visit the old top site, in particular we wanted to see the old fire section. David is just about visible standing in the doorway!  900 feet (yes feet) below, the island was bathed in glorious sunshine. It made it all more like the 'ghost town' experience! 

  

Old top site fire section.

We walked up to what I remember was known as the 'Type 80' which you can just about make out through the gloomy low cloud

'

Then it was back to Norwick beech for one last look.  No wind today and the sun was gently shining through, could almost think this was in Cornwall except we virtually have it to ourselves!

Ginny standing almost exactly to on the spot where I have a picture of my Mum, Dad and Clare taken during a visit in 1976.

1976 and yet another visit by my Mum and Dad.  They really loved this place, as do I.

The rocks seen in the photo above are now below the sand, except for the sloping flat faced rock to my left.

It's such a popular place that Skegness is sign posted...southerly!

Oh well, all the tourists do it so here we are visiting that now famous bus shelter!

At the Uyeasound sailing club we had been told we would find 'Huney.'  She is probably the last surviving RAF Albacore and was on the water back in 1975/76 being sailed by my old pal Steve Dawson. Huney is the red boat suspended from the roof.

This is me at Muness Castle in 2013 and the picture below is of my Dad taken in 1975 at almost the same spot.  He was mad about castles and a visit here whilst on Unst would have been very high on his list of places to visit.  

The castle showing very little change over the past 38 years

All too soon it was time to say goodbye to Unst. We have had an absolutely fabulous time over the past two weeks and it was hard to leave and catch the ferry to Yell.  After a long day on Unst it was nice to settle and enjoy a beautiful sunset on Yell at 'The Wick of Breckon.'

Hermaness Nature Reserve

Puffins, Gannets and the MuckleFlugga

We had been waiting for the weather to improve before heading out to visit the Puffin colony near 'Long Sothers Kame' on the North West Headland of the Hermaness National Nature Reserve.  With the sun peeking through at long last, we headed out on Thursday afternoon.  It's a good walk, mostly in the climb but it's now a boarded walkway making it much easier than the previous peaty path.

The views were amazing all around!  The Bonxies, we're very pleased to be able to say, behaved themselves impeccably taking absolutely no notice of us whatsoever. The Muckle Flugga lighthouse, now unmanned, clearly visible through the bright afternoon sunlight.

The time simply 'flew' past and it was well into the late evening by the time we returned to Harry. It had been a truly wonderful day that will last in our memory for a lifetime.

Flodda, Urda, Clingra, Humla Stacks clearly visible and in the distance Vesta Skerry, Rumblings  and the Muckle Flugga

A lovely dinky little Puffin, not in the least bit camera shy.  It's possible to approach them with ease

So amusing when they take to the air...on the ground, worried looks as one comes in to land!

Just south of the Puffins is a huge Gannet Colony turning the dark cliffs almost white; thousands of birds congregated together. You could hear them long before you could actually see them! 

He is smaller than a town pigeon and completely dwarfed by the gannets(87-100cm) nesting nearby!

The puffins seem to be oblivious to the danger of the patrolling Bonxies which are twice the size of them.

It has been a spectacular day. We have never seen so many birds flying above and below us. Even the rabbits ignored the onlookers and carried on with their quest for food. Puffins looked on mildly interested in the people wielding increasingly larger camera lenses into their eyes. 

Our thanks are noted to the many gifted wildlife photographers who have inspired us to try and emulate them and spur on our enthusiasm to get out there and experience the magic for ourselves. It really is awesome!

Shetland arrival

The time has simply flown since we arrived in Shetland well over a week ago

The crossing was very smooth and the MV Hjaltland was very smooth indeed. It was even better when we went along to the bar for a pre-meal drink and bumped into Albert and Betty Priest on their way back from a family visit to Guernsey. We were the joined by Paul Spence on his way home to Unst for a family visit, Paul now resides in California. The drinks flowed, the cheeks glowed and all was merry as we reminisced the voyage away late into the night.

We grabbed a few hours sleep before Sumburgh Head loomed through the mist off the port bow.

Lerwick Harbour, looking a little grey on arrival

We spent our second night here, I don't think the residents objected, such a beautiful spot the 'Kirk at Lund' at Westing, Unst

.

Reunited with two old friends that I have not seen since 1976. Albert Priest and the Hamarer Cup.  I had the honour to win this at the Baltasound Regatta once!  Albert's name appears at least four times, including last year when he won it at the ripe young age of 69!

Looking out across from the old harbour at Uyeasound

A view many old RAF guys will remember...top site RAF Saxa Vord with the old Muckle Flugga shore station in the foreground

The most northerly beach in Gt Britain, the 'Wick of Skaw'

The Baltasound Regatta, with a Shetland 'Maid' sailing well on the Friday evening!

The most northerly motorhome in Britain, the other evening at least!

Albacores being sailed in a stiff breeze during the Baltasound Regatta on Saturday. It's wonderful to see these fine dinghies still being sailed on these waters. They were introduced by the RAF way back in 1965. To see them now firmly placed into Shetland history is fantastic and for me to know that I was a part of  it.

It was lovely when Ginny was asked to present the prizes after the sailing. It rounded up off an absolutely brilliant day being part of this on-going tradition once more.  

Uyeasound Voe from the shoreline 

The Unst Boat Haven at Haroldswick.  A wonderful tribute the maritime heritage of this Island.  

'Laughing Water' her days tussling for position long gone.  It's strange to see a boat I sailed with in Unst now in a museum!

Ginny and I at the Uyeasound 'Up Helly Aa' shed.

Top site RAF Saxa Vord...buildings are still here but sadly the soul has now long since departed

All in all...it's been a terrific week, and with Unstfest activities we have hardly had a moment without something or other going on.  I have been reunited with some wonderful friendly folk from all those years ago and have now also made some new friends. We still have not ticked all the boxes for what we want to do whilst still on Unst.  Finally getting the hang of this blogging lark!!!  Please forgive any bloopers as doing it in haste when wifi is available or more to the point, actually working!